Dr. John Hal Johnson's Soybean Delights

March/April 1978

There's no disputing the fact that the soybean has a lot going for it! [1] It contains 35 to 40 percent protein (as opposed to only 20 percent in hamburger), [2] it's an extremely inexpensive and plentiful source of protein and other nutrients, and [3] it can form the basis for a seemingly limitless variety of delicious dishes, ranging from soup-through appetizers, salads, and desserts-to nuts (have you ever tasted roasted soybeans?).

Dr. John Hal Johnson, a food scientist at Brigham Young University in Provo, Utah, has been aware of these soybean secrets for a long time. And he's spent the last nine years researching new uses for the Asian legume. During that time he's come up with recipes for such foods as a sandwich spread, a creamy dip, a crunchy granola, a kind of cheese, and a brownie-like dessert ... all composed chiefly of soybeans.

Unless you're already a soybean aficionado, Dr. Johnson says, the taste of these dishes may surprise you. (They're darned good!) The professor's official tasters-his own children, other youngsters in the neighborhood, and students in his classes-all agree.

And the fact that soybeans are so nourishing just enhances their value. "They have a much higher protein content than other beans," explains the Utah food expert. "They're also 20 percent oil, and that oil can be used for cooking and to make salad dressing and margarine. Furthermore-after the oil has been pressed from the beans-the meal which remains can be ground into a flour which is 50 percent protein."

One tablespoon of that defatted flour, Dr. Johnson adds-when combined with "four tablespoons of corn flour-will increase the protein content of the corn product by 150 percent. The protein quality of the mixture will also be better than that of the corn flour alone. And if one-half cup of the soy flour is added to the wheat dough in a loaf of bread, the baked loaf's protein content can be increased by 50 percent.

The cost of soybean protein is another point in the beans' favor. For example, a whole pound of pure soy protein (two pounds of 50% protein flour) costs only 50 cents ... whereas a pound of pure hamburger protein (the meat costs about 70 cents a pound and contains only 20% protein) runs $3.50.

Other sources of high-quality protein, such as milk and eggs, are also relatively expensive when compared to the beans. In fact, even pinto and navy beans cost more and provide less protein than do soybeans.

Dr. Johnson-like many another scientist?believes that soybeans can be the answer to the world's food shortage. The legumes can be grown all over the world, and can be combined with less nutritious grains (such as corn, wheat, rye, and rice) to produce a great many palatable foods.

Among the professor's test creations is a snack food called "snoiks", which comes out of an extruder looking like cheese puffs but containing twice the protein (and none of the less healthful ingredients) of ordinary "junk foods". Snoiks-which hold great possibilities for dieters because of their low fat and carbohydrate content-are made of a combination of soy and corn flours and can be flavored in a variety of ways. Dr. Johnson hopes they'll eventually be distributed through vending machines in all parts of the nation.

John Hal Johnson offers novices the following tips on soybean use:

[1] Dried soybeans can be soaked and cooked whole like pinto beans. (But?because their protein content is so high-they take longer to cook.)

[2] The dried beans can also be ground in a flour mill, in a two-stage process: first coarse, then fine. (Because of their high fat content, soybeans will plug up a grinder if you try to pulverize them too fine the first time through.)

[3] When you use ground soy flour in a recipe, mix it first with boiling water to prevent it from developing a "painty" taste. (Don't add extra water to the recipe, just boil whatever liquid the recipe calls for.)

[4] As an alternative to soy flour, you can make soy milk. Soak 1/3 cup dried beans, covered, for at least three hours (or-better yet-overnight). Then add enough water to bring the total volume up to two cups and cook the beans for 15 minutes, adding one teaspoon of oil to reduce foaming. Preheat a blender with hot tap water, add the steaming soybeans, and blend them at high speed for three minutes. (Soy milk will keep about the same length of time as cow's milk.)

[5] You can add soy flour or soy milk to all kinds of recipes ... just make sure not to use more than 10 percent soy flour in any flour mixture. (The results would be nutritious, but almost inedible.)

For those who've never yet cooked with soybeans, Dr. Johnson recommends the following recipes.

SOY WAFFLES

1 cup medium-thick soy milk

1 cup cold water

I teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil

1/4 cup cornmeal

1-1/4 cups whole wheat flour

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

Pour the soy milk into a mixing bowl and place the bowl in cold water or in the refrigerator. When the soy milk is cool, stir the additional ingredients into the bowl. This recipe makes two 12"-square waffles. (Soy waffles should be cooked until they're fairly dry, because of the water-holding tendency of the dough.) As a variation, try using 1-1/2 cups of flour and a teaspoon of cinnamon, and omitting the cornmeal.

CORN SOY SQUARES
1 cup hot, thick soy milk 1/8 pound butter or margarine or 1/4 cup cooking oil
1 cup turbinado sugar or 3/4 cup honey
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole wheat flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla
Optional Ingredients:

1-1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 to 1/3 cup raisins, chopped dates, or chocolate chips
2/3 tablespoon cocoa or carob powder
1/ 3 cup chopped nuts

While the soy milk is still in the blender, add the margarine or oil, sugar or honey, and salt. Blend together, pour out, and let cool. Then add the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and vanilla. Stir in one or more of the optional ingredients, and pour into a layer cake pan. Bake at 400° for 20-25 minutes. Cool and cut into squares. This dough may also be used as a layer for a cake, frosted as a cake, or-by omitting the baking powder-baked into a "bar" texture.

CHEASBEANS

Soak dried soybeans in water for three hours, boil them for 20 minutes, drain, and salt lightly. The beans can be eaten like salted peanuts, and will keep for two to three days if covered and put in the refrigerator. They can also be added to a rice or pasta casserole.

SOY-ENRICHED MEAT LOAF

1/3 cup soy flour
1/3 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup water
1/2 pound hamburger

Mix the flours and water together until smooth, then add the mixture to the hamburger. (You may use even more of the batter mixture, if you wish.) Add seasoning and other additional ingredients according to your own favorite meat loaf recipe.

SOY PUDDING

1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons turbinado sugar or honey
2 tablespoons soy flour
1 cup cold water
1 tablespoon butter or margarine (optional)

Thoroughly mix the ingredients in a saucepan, then heat the pudding-stirring it all the while-over a medium flame until it thickens. Cinnamon or other "sweet" spices may be added to taste.

SOY DIP

1 cup thick soy milk
1 cup salad oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
Slowly mix the ingredients together in a blender, or with an electric mixer. Add whatever flavoring you choose?onion, blue cheese, tomato paste, etc.-during this blending.

RICE-SOY BEAN CASSEROLE

2 cups cooked rice
1 cup soaked and cooked soybeans
3/4 cup diced celery
1/4 cupminced onion
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can chicken broth or 1 can tuna
1/2 teaspoon salt

Combine the ingredients in a casserole dish and bake the hearty meal in a moderate oven until it's thoroughly heated through and through. Serve garnished with parsely.

CAKE MIXES

One cup of medium-thick soy milk may be substituted for two eggs and 1/4 cup water in a cake batter. Additional flour or cornstarch (about two tablespoons, perhaps) should be added as needed to control the batter's consistency.

SOY-ENRICHED BREAD

1 package dry yeast

3/4 cup warm water

1 cup medium-thick soy milk

1 tablespoon shortening

1 tablespoon turbinado sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

4 cups whole wheat flour

Rehydrate the yeast in the water for 10 minutes. Add all other ingredients but the flour and mix together well. Then add two cups of the flour and stir it in until the mixture is smooth. Add the remaining two cups of flour, and knead until the dough is elastic.

Let the sponge rest at a temperature of about 86°F until it has doubled in bulk. Then knead it some more and form the dough into a loaf. Once again let the dough double in size, then place it in a bread pan and bake at 400° for 40-45 minutes.

If you prefer to use your own bread recipe, simply substitute 1/4 cup of soy flour for 1/4 cup of other flour.